Beiträge von Klaas

    Frances, Jürgen and Rudi, thank you very much for your comments. The past days I tried the following: I kept the pupae
    at roughly 30 degrees Celsius at 100% humidity. I realize that these conditions can be harmful to the pupae, but it is the
    only combination of temperature and humidity that I haven't tried with Archon apollinus in the past. The frustrating part
    of this breeding, is that I have reared A. apollinus bellargus without any troubles with a hatching rate of >90%!

    The first pupae have started to get darker and the surface of the wings has started to weaken. This is what I would expect to
    happen shortly before hatching, but it might just as well indicate that the pupae have died. I will wait until the last pupa has
    hatched/died and then I will write a breeding report for actias.de.

    Regards,
    Klaas

    In 2011 I collected a number of Archon apollinus ssp. drusica caterpillars in southern Syria. Almost all caterpillars pupated
    successfully and none were parasitized. This spring many adults started developing inside the pupa, but almost all of them
    died inside the pupa as apparently fully developed adults (pupae kept between 15-30 degrees Celsius). This was a major
    disappointment for me. I have no idea about the cause, but I still kept some hope that other dormant pupae would produce
    adults in spring 2013.

    Recently however, 8 adults have started developing (A. apollinus seems to have an autumn generation as well). The first 2 pupae
    that lost their translucency, turned almost black some days ago. They both contained a dead adult, almost fully developed, soaking
    in a dark fluid. The other pupae may still be alive, but for how long?

    Has anyone ever encountered this problem with Archon apollinus or other Papilionidae pupae? Currently I'm keeping the pupae at 20-25
    degrees and quite dry. Should I keep them colder and more humid (as A. apollinus flies in early sping, soon after the snow has melted)
    or warmer (as many fully developed adults died without hatching from pupae and as the day temperatures during the flight period can easily
    exceed 25 degrees in southern Syria)? I'm very interested in all opinions and/or hints!

    Regards, Klaas

    There might be a coincidental genetic cause for the unfertility of your Polish x Spanish eggs (mutations/translocations etc. in either of the parents), but this has nothing
    to do with the two populations of Papilio machaon being genetically too far apart from each other. Crossing Papilio machaon with other related Papilio species that are much
    more genetically distinct often results in > 95% of the eggs being fertile!

    Groeten, Klaas

    Lewis, storing your G. isabellae pupae in the fridge below 5 degrees for at least 2-3 months is the only

    way you can let them hatch this year. Any other attempt won't work. My advice: study some literature

    before you choose to purchase live material from a species, to avoid such stupid mistakes in the future.

    Groeten, Klaas

    Hi everyone,

    Today I discovered something awkward! I have a number of Archon apollinus pupae that I collected in Syria this spring.
    From mid November on I've kept these in the refrigerator at 2-3°C, which should approach the average December temperature
    on the mountain where I collected them. When I checked the pupae today, I found that, despite the low temperatures, roughly
    half of them already contain fully developed adults. Has anyone ever experienced this with A. apollinus?

    Development of the adult at such low temperatures might of course be beneficial in snowy, mountainous areas where the onset of
    spring is very fast as soon as the snow has melted. This spring I indeed saw some males from A. apollinus that were very worn,
    while I was told that the locality was still covered with snow only 3 weeks earlier.

    Some time ago I read on this forum that another early species, Endromis versicolora, actually hibernates as a fully developed adult
    inside its pupa. Does anyone know when the development of the adult starts in E. versicolora? And for how long the adult can survive
    unhatched at low temperatures? The reason I'm asking, is because I am not sure what I should do with the A. apollinus pupae: let
    the developed adults emerge now, or keep them cold until spring (hoping they will survive)?

    Regards, Klaas

    This afternoon I caught a Macroglossum stellatarum female and I would like to let it oviposite. Does anyone have any experience with this species? Should I use a flight cage with flowers and Galium? Or would a large jar with Galium, artifical light and frequent feeding with honey water be sufficient? Hope someone can help me!

    Regards, Klaas

    Dear Gabor,

    Cut away as much of the flesh as possible. Then put the skulls in a bucket, filled with water. Store the buckets in a sunny place,
    as far away from your home as possible. A lid can prevent too much stench. If you can find a way to heat the buckets to 35 degrees
    Celsius, the rotting process will take place more quickly. When the bacteria have done their work (after a number of weeks), you might
    need to degrease the skulls with "Salmiakgeist". After 1-2 weeks, you can whiten the skulls with 10-30% H2O2 (Wasserstoffperoxid).
    Good luck!

    Regards, Klaas