Posts by kevink

    That's a spot. Animals tie people down, even my clown fish. I wouldn't trust anyone with my animals, it's

    a lot of responsibility.

    Paying a neighbor might work, depending on where you're at, a pet sitter might be something to think

    about. I know, it sounds silly. There are pet stores that offer fish tank care, but usually in a larger city than

    I live in, You might try potted plants so you don't need to change leaves.

    your box looks very orderly, being outdoors, even in an outside shed, you may not have to spray the pupa at

    all, ambient humidity might be enough to prevent drying out.

    I use a different method with bare pupa, moist peat in the refrigerator, and it never molded.

    You might lay tissue paper on top of the pupa and mist that. Even in a controlled space, like the

    fridge, I check at least once a month for mold.

    for what it's worth, I have only one experience with feeding sphinx moths- Hyles lineata,

    I used a small dish with electrolyte hummingbird bird nectar and a few tiny flowers tossed on top,

    like rosemary, or small violets, and the moths ate from it.

    They completely ignored the smallest hummingbird feeder I could find, which I was sure would work,

    but instead, simply drank right out of a small petri type dish, Cage size, I used a pup tent style screen cage

    used to keep bugs off of food at a picnic,

    I'm sure different species nay act differently, and I did try using real flowering plants, but the moths ignored those

    as far as I could tell, and they need more than what most of us could provide without a conservatory.

    There are a number of resources I use and you'll find some have similar findings, others will have different

    experiences. Anything can fail, for sure, and there's only one way to get real experience.

    Try these other sources as well-

    butterfliesandmore.net

    breedingbutterflies.com

    silkmoths.bizland.com

    raisingbutterflies.org

    butterflyboutique.net

    insectnet,com

    Check your sellers and keep notes about everything. Use a payment method that's recoverable,while nearly everyone is helpful,

    some are not.

    Being in the EU for you is an advantage for species available .

    Best wishes out there!

    I didn't know hobbyists could get those species here in the states, Not that I care, I get Saturniidae from the Eu, at least

    I used to (covid).

    Personally, I think the cage is small for butterflies.

    Lighting try looking for full spectrum led light panels, cheap and they put out a lot of light.

    Try Ebay or Amazon,

    I use mine for rearing larva indoors regardless of ambient light, unless you have sun room,

    heated greenhouse or conservatory, ambient light needs some supplement.

    Most larva change color, Some will wander looking for a perfect spot for pupation, they can be picky, and

    sometimes choose spots inconvenient for us.

    They will purge their gut, usually a yucky mass of liquid, depending on the size of the larva it can be very

    noticeable.

    If they aren't eating like normal, and the food hasn't changed, becoming sere, I'd look for the color change, the gut

    purge, either on the leaves, or the cage floor. It can be easily overlooked sometimes, just a black stain on the leaves.

    It can take more than a day for a larva to find a pupation location, and sometimes they change their mind.

    No, they don't. Although- I have read somewhere that Actias luna has a light sensing area on the head

    of the pupa, in order to discern day length. I don't know if that's true. Some cocoons I keep in the house for emergence,

    at the proper time (I want) and they seem to be fine without the same lighting you might use for larva, and adults.

    My Attacus seemed to emerge just fine in a cage in a closet, while not completely dark, it's far from daylight.

    There are also pupa that bury themselves, and certainly aren't affected by light.

    Perhaps butterfly pupa are different, but I'd say no, and light for the most part doesn't make a difference to a cocoon

    or pupa.

    Someone with more breeding experience might have different experiences.

    The subject of pupa hanging came up a while back with a really good idea that was put forth- a microfiber cloth that the pupa

    seem to just stick to, usually some silk threads remain on the top of the chrysalid.


    Light is important to replicate natural conditions, many people use lights indoors, I use full spectrum leds

    on timers, using this method, you can replicate a natural outdoor light cycle, or manipulate it during winter

    to simulate summer.

    Things happen, and depending on how many larva you have, things can get out of hand easily.

    I've mushed more than one caterpillar when I had Papilio polyxenes in the house, changing fennel

    for 6 dozen caterpillars not only takes time, there's always one of two larva that don't know- I'm

    trying to help you guys.

    Good luck with your efforts.

    It will either heal( unlikely) or expire. It depends on the wound.


    Moving larva is stressful for all involved. Try just taking whatever they're on and placing it where you

    want, you might have to clip a branch, or a leaf. Sometimes you can coax them onto something else,

    but even your finger they'll cling to sometimes. It can try a person's patience to be sure.

    Nasturtiums are just about unkillable. With cabbage whites, Pieris rapea is multi-generation and it's the weather that

    is the issue, as long as it's warm, they'll continue breeding.

    So- depending on your weather outdoors, they can fly into November or longer, where I am on the Pacific Coast in

    the USA, I see them until it frosts, late October or later.


    I suppose you could raise them year around if you kept them warm, other than that, taking pupa when it gets cold

    and storing them outdoors in a small screen cage (pest proof), or in the fridge would probably work until the weather

    warms. You might try and making a cage around their foodplant out of window screen and that would keep the

    chickens from them.


    Or, taking the food plant out of the ground and into a planter, and moving it away from the chickens or making a cage

    around that.


    there aren't any questions here you'll get derided for.

    Dubernardi breeding is not a sure thing, and hatching can be sporadic, I've been consistently disappointed

    trying breeding, for some, it works, for others, it's virtually impossible.

    I hope you fall into the former,

    I use a needle and thread or string, it's not necessary to get close to the pupa, and you're unlikely to

    spear any pupa inside a cocoon, or, sometimes I use twist tie wire to fix the cocoon, and like the above

    answer, some cocoons don't need to be hung at all.

    These are animals and designed to survive all that nature throws at them, fretting over perfection isn't

    always needed.

    Usually you can tell where the escape area is.

    I've never known any to feed on cannabis.

    Just slugs, deer, neighbors. probably rabbits and other herbivores as well.

    I couldn't make an guess as to why not without some humor involved, maybe

    it's toxicity, I don't think animals typically consume plants people use for their

    mind altering effects, although Manduca sexta will eat tobacco. So maybe there are

    other examples.

    I've never raised Attacus, but I have read that giving them a variety of food plant is helpful, other than that, it's probably

    the food plant in general, a constant supply of fresh food, I typically change food plant before there are any signs of

    wilting or drying.

    Having a break in feeding is not going to be good at all, "dwarfism" if you can call it that, is often caused by rearing issues,

    usually something to do with the food plant, or lack of.

    You can also try dextrose mixed in the vase water, or sprayed on the leaves, a tablespoon per quart/liter.

    Singles are just specimens to me, I am actually surprised to hear your dubernardi hatched, I have never had good results

    with this species, they are reticent to mate, they emerge sporadically- if at all.

    My last experience had hope at first when 5 moths all emerged at the same time, the other 5 or 6 didn't,

    and ended up expiring as pupa.

    To me, it's sadder to see a moth flap around and destroy itself when there is no chance of a pairing, it could

    be a nice display specimen for years. Even when I have a single hatch, and have other cocoons or pupa of the

    same species, it starts becoming a judgement call sometimes to wait for a mate, or take the specimen for the

    display case. Too often I've waited in vain for a mate, only to have every adult batter itself useless.

    Not enough people raise beetles, it takes a lot longer to get them from an egg to an adult than lepidoptera.
    I raised my first grub to adult Lucanus elephus recently, over a year from the l2 I purchased.
    Experience takes time, other than that, books and asking for help.
    Try Orin McMonigle's book- (the ultimate guide to raising beetles), covers our natives and exotics.

    I've just started raising beetles, my understanding is that when a grub pupates, it remains in a hibernating state until
    it emerges as an adult for mating and or eating.
    Perhaps the beetle was prematurely awakened.
    I've also found with adult beetles, if they don't act normally, they don't come out of it and expire prematurely.
    Many of us trade non-natives, typically lepidoptera, and it's a risk, and without knowing the source, or how it was shipped,
    perhaps an answer lies there, accepting risk with non-natives is a personal choice, and typically all goes well, I have very
    much wanted to import live exotic beetles and decided against it, they pose different issues than ova or pupa.