Beiträge von kevink

    The problem I see with computer language is "assumption", in that when I bought the first desktop back in the mid 90's,

    I'm expected to know what all these bizarre and inexplicable terms mean. The assumption is that because you use it, you should know,

    I already had to learn new words to use the machine in the first place. Maybe I'm off topic, but there are a number of things I still

    Have no idea how to do or what certain terms mean. And- and, you don't have to be stupid to have this stuff go over your head,

    I'm not stupid, at least as far as I can tell or several other people believe. :face_with_tongue:

    Some of us are never going to eat insects. Period. Discussion is pointless.

    Secondly, words like "cookies" "java" etc. mean what? To who? To me it means

    chocolate chip discs that I dip in milk, the caffeinated water I drink in the morning,

    or late at night.

    Making sense would go a long way to helping people create things. :winking_face:

    Thank you.

    Luckily, I live on the coast, and things are just leafing out now, at least the early ones.

    I've got the lilac, and the ovalifolium privet, as well as japonica.

    A nice leafy evergreen would be helpful, preferably one I've got already.


    Chance mating, by any measure. The stock is from a batch I bought in the spring of

    2023, I had 2 females hatch last May, and nothing until a couple days ago. I tried all

    the usual emergence triggers I could think of, and they decided to hatch in my cool room,

    comparatively, to my normal 73f.

    alternatively, you could use a container like a petri dish and mist the top lid for humidity, I've hatched ova with extra humidity, and

    without, it seems the same, although animals from moist climates probably benefit from the moisture, never put leaves in with ova,

    it's like turning on the grow lights for seeds you just planted- a waste of resources and effort, and the leaves may give off carbon dioxide.

    Room temperature has always been adequate as well.

    I have hand paired Papilio polyxenes and Papilio macheon oregonia.

    They were both similar in apparent parameters-

    those being angle of copulation, time of day and age, as well as before and after feeding

    For me, it seemed easier in the late morning before feeding, with animals more than 1 day old.


    I was a first timer, at the start it seemed impossible, but after sticking with it, I managed to end up with too

    many ova and larva. The butterflies need gently held and simply press the abdomens together while slightly

    squeezing to expose the genitalia, at basically a straight on approach, rather than an angle.


    All that being said, it's still something that takes patience and experience, which I still lack somewhat.

    Argema mimosae can stay in the cocoon for a long time, I've had them hatch after 18 months. That's after I got them. Hatching for exotic

    animals is an estimate in my opinion, my house is not Africa, or Thailand, so even doing my best, sometimes it's not good enough.


    besides drying out and losing weight, they will also have a temperature change, in that if you hold a live pupa to your lips, it will feel

    cold, and a dead one will feel warmer, or room temperature. This really does work.

    You can always put the pupae back into their cocoons, that works as well.

    Typically cocoons do not need opened. They have evolved to do what they do and don't need our help. However, I have had problems with Attacus

    atlas exiting the cocoon, and sometimes a moth may get entangled in the threads around the exit, but it's rare.


    I like to hang cocoons when possible from a branch, or a string strung across the emergence cage, when I can't hang them, I arrange the

    cocoons or pupae around the bottom of a bare branch, or next to the cage side, as often as not, the moths will skip the branch and crawl

    up the cage side, and sometimes hang upside down from the ceiling.


    As far as your Rothschildia species, I haven't raised that one, but in the past, a period of cool and dry, followed by warmer and wetter

    conditions have induced hatching, it doesn't always work though, I still have Rothschildia arethusa cocoons over a year old, 2 moths

    Hatched soon after receipt, and the remaining 10 are still hanging around- literally.

    I have the same situation. Along with that, the collection as well as most of the live material I keep from time to time is in my main room.

    I use Bioquip cases, and they fit tight. However pests can get in one way or another.

    Personally, I use moth crystal packets that I simply pin inside the cases so they don't move around.

    There are other deterrents, some are more dangerous to be around like dichlorvos and some people

    rely on natural things like cedar oils.

    I can still smell the moth crystals at times, when I am close to the cabinets, but they are effective, however they

    will slowly "evaporate" and need replaced periodically.

    Here in the USA, moth crystal is still legal. I buy it at a variety store. I have never had a problem with mixing live

    material and the cases, I've got larva going right now as well as an aging darkling beetle.

    I have found that even ova will make it safe when sent from the EU to me here in the USA, during the winter, species like Actias isis and maenas

    I'd guess that it can't be much different in for Japan,

    and cocoons should be more suited to surviving any cold.

    Hot glue might work for you.

    An excellent choice, giving displays as gifts, all my relatives have multiple

    displays...at least I sent them.

    Pest control is a problem, I use Riker mounts myself, because it's easy, although

    last year I used some nice shadow boxes with hinged lids.

    Pests show up randomly- I have riker mounts in the house that are years old, and no

    pests, and no chemicals either, and no pests get in or get interested, and in the same house

    my tight fitting cases with moth crystals get pests.

    UV is an issue, difficult to find uv resistant cases.

    Many of my food plant trees are in containers. I have a number of tree species and use wooden containers I

    Have built as well as manufactured pots.

    The limiting factors are water, and as long as you water enough, plants will grow in anything, just like hydroponics,

    wind is a problem, making sure things stay right side up can be a challenge.

    Plants in containers take more care, but it can work, I chose containers because of the nature of my landscaping.

    There are some advantages with containers, being more options for caging, or bringing the plants indoors.

    Some species are regulated by photoperiods. Pieris rapae may need a diapause, I'm still seeing the butterflies

    flying here, but a frost is still a month or more away. You may need fresh food plants, I have nasturtiums and they

    have a lifespan regardless of the weather.

    I wouldn't depend on "climate change" to be very reliable for much.

    When you run out of the food plant you've been using, it's worth a try to give them whatever you have at hand.

    One never knows if the larva will switch, or what they'll accept.

    I finished a brood of Acherontia atropos on Olive after starting them on potato, and refusing everything other

    alternate.

    I have seen larva consume wilted and sere leaves, but they were L 5's and I wouldn't count on carrying any larva

    very far on material like that.

    Where is a very unfriendly answer??? I do not find any.

    VG

    In my opinion some of the answers are clearly subjective. Everyone's experience will NOT be identical, or hasn't

    anyone noticed that ? Personally, if I was going to teach students, beginners, of any age, and had no experience

    myself, I'd look to a science related website that can provide a kit or some all in one package. Many lepidoptera

    can be raised on artificial diet, and are suitable. Clearly issues with release or disposition of adults is another

    matter. And dubernardi is easy, Except for mating.

    Usually polyphemus will stay copulated until the next day, after pairing in the evening. I am sure there

    are exceptions.

    The mass laying sounds abnormal.

    My guess would be any ova are probably not fertilized, from either female.

    I always keep ova for at least 14 days, sometimes longer, or unless the ova collapse and shrink,

    then that is a clear sign of infertility. Most Saturniidae hatch in 10 days, give or take, others can take

    much longer.

    Use a small container, don't put any leaves in with ova, I use a petri dish for ova and mist the top of the dish

    periodically.

    Lastly, it's getting late for caterpillars, especially outdoors.

    A lot of interesting methods. I don't think there is 1 size fits all approach. Some plants simply wilt quicker

    than others. I have problems with Salix babylonica and sometimes with Prunus serotina, I cut stems

    at an angle and use plain tap water.

    I've got willow in the house now, some of the leaves will probably be dry in the morning, and I just cut

    that and put it in water. My Liquidambar lasts several days indoors in water, right next to the cage with the

    willow. I use airy cages as well. Planning ahead can be helpful. Having plants small enough to bring indoors

    is an option sometimes.

    I don't know for certain. Many persons use the fridge because it's a controlled environment, but there are some

    species that require colder temperatures than you're going to want in the fridge. I use my refrigerator for nearly

    every temperate species, and it works fine.

    If I was going to overwinter Graellsia isabellae again, I'd probably set the fridge as low as I dared and put the

    cocoons in the coldest spot.

    I've had Graellsia overwinter a 2nd time. I had two batches from very different locations, both stored in

    the fridge. All of one batch emerged together, the 2nd batch remained and if I recall correctly the moths

    that eventually hatched were weak or deformed.

    My conclusion was that the temperature in the fridge was not cold enough, maybe, maybe not. Inbreeding

    was not a factor considering my seller's sourcing.

    If and hopefully when I try them again, I'll overwinter them at colder temperature, sometimes the top shelf

    in the fridge will be colder in the back where the cold air comes out. It's either that or a different appliance if your

    outdoor temps don't get snow.

    Correcting people is pointless and in my opinion reflects on one's need for superiority.

    I find being corrected incredibly annoying. given that at 59, I am content to be incorrect

    at times, when I need advice, there is an option.